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Looking for Bayer Advanced Disease Control

13 years ago

Hi, This is my first post here :) I have noticed that after so much rain and now some nice warm weather, my roses have started to get some black spot as well as one bush that has lots of mildew over almost the entire plant.

I did some searching and found an overseas forum that recommended Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, it is a fungacide. They said it was a great product that "cured" the black spot and mildew and stopped it coming back.

I have just been to my local Bunnings and they didn't have it. I also can't find it doing a Google search of Australian sites. Does anyone know of this product and if it might be called something else in Australia? or can you recommend a different product please? I have tried Yates Rose Gun and found that it didn't do much as all. Thanks for any help.

Comments (8)

mistymorn
13 years ago
If you spray your rose bushes with a fungicide eg Lime Sulfur after the Winter prune that should top a lot of mildew have a look at the link below.. I don't think you can stop black spot I have tried for many years, the roses still look pretty even with those coloured leaves, or pull them off bag and bin them..

Here is a link that might be useful: Yates Lime Sulphur
funnelweb
13 years ago
Yes, lime-supher mix in winter sprayed or poured with a watering can with a 'rose' head over the whole bush after you have done your winter prune and over the surrounding soil so as to kill off the (fungal) spores that winter over in the soil. And, I reckon at least monthly, spray with a fungicide such as Triphorine perhaps a bit more often if you are also suffering mildew. Good air circulation for roses is also important especially in humid areas. You might also consider varieties resistant to diseases, such as the old fashion varieties - they may not repeat flower as much as the modern hybrids but they are, generally, much more resistant.
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Can't find it anywhere either, in Nebraska--some folks at the Rose Forum said it can be purchased at Lowe's, but it's not on the shelves at my local Lowe's. I made a trip there just for it, and all they had was the (expensive) three-in-one systemic drench that I DON'T want. I do find the Bayer insect control spray everywhere, just not the disease control. So, I'm still using Daconil for my fungal issues.
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Sue, The dark spots on the lower surface sound like lace bugs. Whitish specks on the upper surface of leaves and dark spots varnish-like on the bottom are symptoms of Rhododendron Lace Bugs, Stephanitis rhododendri, and Azalea Lace Bugs, Stephanitis pyrioides, small insects with transparent wings on under-surface of leaves.. This insect hatches early in spring as the new foliage begins to mature and its numbers may build to damaging levels with successive generations. Lace bugs reach their peak in late summer and do their worst in sunny, exposed sites. Spiders are important predators of lace bugs and since they shy away from sunny, hot places, plant your azaleas where there is some shade. Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or a systemic insecticide may spare your azaleas the damage if applied in spring when the first hatchlings are noticed. Care must be taken to spray the lower surfaces of the leaves where the lace bugs live. Moving a plant to an area with more shade may alleviate the problem. Lace bugs are more prevalent on certain varieties. Cottony masses on underside of leaves are a symptom of egg masses of the Cottony Azalea Scale, Pulvinaria floccifera. They are up to 1/2 inch long. Control is the same as with other scale insects. The scale insects are what secrete the sugary substance that becomes sooty mold growth on stems and petioles. This includes Azalea Bark Scale, Eriococcus azalea, and Cottony Azalea Scale, Pulvinaria floccifera. These small sucking insects feed on the bark and exude a sticky substance that turns the stems black. A scale infestation is indicated by sooty mold on leaves, yellowing of leaves, and twig dieback. This scale is most obvious from May through June when white egg sacs may be found in twig forks. Heavy infestations over several seasons may kill plants. Overwintering immature scales (nymphs) are about 2 mm long, gray, and are usually found in twig forks. This scale primarily attacks azalea and rhododendron, but has also been found on andromeda, maple, arborvitae, willow, poplar, and hackberry. Azaleas can tolerate low populations of this scale without injury, and if there are no yellowing leaves, no treatment is necessary. Beneficial predators and parasites will usually provide adequate control of light scale infestations. Examine egg sacs for holes which indicates control by parasites, and look for predators such as ladybird beetles. To control heavy infestations, spray dormant plants with a late oil spray to kill developing nymphs on twigs. If necessary a 2% summer rate of horticultural oil may be applied in July after all of the eggs have hatched.
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I've been using this stuff for a long time. I haven't grown a 2nd nose or 30 toes yet. I have bee's, frogs, butterfly's and humming birds in my garden all the time. The last time I looked in the mirror I really didn't look like a rat or mouse. I wear long sleeve shirt, long pants and eye protection. Clean everything up with a lot of water and take a shower after spraying. You have to look at it like this. ANY man made chemical is going to have some adverse effect on something living sometime. Do you use deodorant?
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tuppitoo
13 years ago
I have always used a spray of 1 part full cream milk to 7 parts water. The fat in the milk seems to stop the mildew and
black spot. I don't know how it goes in very humid conditions,but I didn't have to spray my roses last year.
Good luck chas
triciac
13 years ago
I've heard of the milk and water treatment too Chas, seems to work. I was told by a rosarian that if you have roses, you take black spot as a given, if you leave the old leaves on the ground it will grow back.
mistymorn
13 years ago
I tried that milk/water spray for two years not only did it start to get very expensive as I was told to do it every two weeks it did not work here with the high humidity.
funnelweb
13 years ago
I think I'll stick to my method, Triphorine fungacide with a systemic such as rogor or malathison (excuse spelling) or Labaycid (now too expensive) about every 8 to 10 weeks or less keeps all the funguses, the aphids, the scales and the azalea lace-bug at bay. Also regular (weekly) deadheading of spent flowers and dead wood (dieback) keeps my lot healthy, happy and blooming all season.
SueKelly
9 years ago
Yes I'm also looking at my options right now. The black spot is threatening my lovely new hybrid teas! The nursery recommended Mancozeb....Up till now I've been keen to stick with organic mix sprayed weekly, but that doesn't appear to have worked. I remove leaves and bin them twice a day, some roses have had most of their leaves removed now, and replaced by lovely healthy new growth. Tonight I sprayed with Mancozeb. I read you need to supplement this with a systemic fungicide such as Triforine....the trouble with that is the instructions say not to spray on new growth! How can that work?!
Fred51
8 years ago
Yes Roses will be full of mildew, Black spot and Rust I would give them a light prune and remove all infected Leaves and buds from the bush and ground A good fungicide like Triforine or Mancozeb will help but gardshard to keep on top in wet weather.

Regards Old fred

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