Planting after Gypsum spreading
reillyoz007
18 years ago
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mistymorn
18 years agoRelated Discussions
How soon can I fight weeds after spreading seed?
Comments (2)I totally agree. You've got some weeds, but they are in two types: the broadleaf, and the grass-type. The grass-type are like nutsedge, and quackgrass, and perhaps (but not likely, at this time of year) some crabgrass. You have to deal with them next spring, you just can't do it now. The broadleaf can be dealt with by the hand sprayer (the trigger squeeze bottle) of Weed B Gone. Start working on your marksmanship. And short shots. One drop will do it, really. But my guess is you're plaged with several of the round leafed seem-to-be-everywhere types like Plantain and Purselane. Start at one end of the lawn. Walk backwards, in rows. You're walking backward, because you don't want to step on the weed after spraying the weed. One shot, Wyatt Earp, one shot. If you miss one, hey, it's no big deal. Keep moving. But the improvement that you'll see, after a week, will be impressive. But you don't want a weed N Feed product on that new lawn. That's for next spring, and, if you can afford it, it may wait til next fall. I'm not saying throw it away, but, like BPGreen, I'm recommending that you don't buy anymore....See MoreIdentify - you'd help me on my quest to spread native plants
Comments (2)What is your question? Your link takes us to a webpage but I don't know what you're trying to identify....See MoreHow to spread granular fertilizer after mulching
Comments (2)You will be better off if you can scrape the mulch away from the plant (with a hand cultivator), put down the fertilizer, scratch it in (again, with the hand cultivator), and pull the mulch back over the dirt. If you have a ton of bushes to do this to, I would guess that you could put the fertilizer right over the mulch, stir the mulch around a little, so the fertilizer gets off the top, and water it in. Or, as you say, use liquid fertilizer. Joan...See MoreArg, red clay soil - overuse of gypsum detrimental to plants?
Comments (5)Hi Dottie (and everyone else), I have two separate issues here. The first one is dying plants in my originally amended soil (rubber, topsoil, and some compost). I lost my Butterfly Blue Scabiosa, part of my Limerock Ruby, a Dahlia (top growth only, it is now sprouting from the tuber), and a Gaura. Right now my Geum Chilean Avens is looking sickly yellow in its leaves and is also probably on its way out. All of the plants (with the exception of the Dahlia) turned yellow and wilted before quickly dying - turning crispy. That Dahlia just wilted and died. I suspect stem rot perhaps due to placing mulch too close to the stem. They thrived after planting. The Butterfly Blue (planted last fall) bloomed almost all winter and was glorious in the early-mid spring before its quick demise. The Limerock Ruby overwintered and was thriving as well as was the Gaura (which was on its way to taking over the bed) and for its short life the Dahlia. The bed gets full sun, southern exposure, for close to 10 hours a day which is why I mulched well (using cocoa shells applied in the spring over a very thin layer of hardwood mulch) and close to the base of the plant. Plants that continue to do well in the "death row" bed are: hardy Hibiscus, Moonbeam and Sweet Dreams Coreopsis, the part of the Limerock that survived, Blue Mirror Delphinium (newly planted in the spring but currently sprouting some new growth), Surise Coneflower, Dianthus, and Joystick Armeria (gets some shade from other plants). The bed is toward the front of the house, not near the foundation. The same plants (with the exception of the Avens, which is showing some yellow in its leaves) are doing well on the other side of the bed which is on the other side of the front walkway. We have a leaky gutter that pours water out on the "dying side" but not on the bed about 6' behind the bed and the yard slopes a little towards the front, so maybe the extra moisture is filtering towards the plants? The "non-dying" side also gets about 2-3 less hours of sun depending on the section of the bed. Beds are hand-watered overhead for the most part as needed depending on the individual plant (established, newly planted etc.) On the other side of each of these front beds is a dramatic slope to the street. So, thinking it might be a drainage/mulch issue, I decided to rework the part of the beds with the dying flowers using the method I originally described mistakenly thinking that gypsum was an aeration agent like coarse sand or perlite. I then added mulch but left a nice open ring around the stem. So I am wondering if I need to offset all of the gypsum with a little lime which probably wouldn't hurt since my soil pH is so low which may have its own contribution to plant demise. I apologize for the long post, but there is all of the information (I think :) ). Many thanks!...See MoreSparaxis
18 years agogardenlen
18 years agoRobert_NSW
18 years agoRose_Qld
18 years agoSparaxis
18 years agoRaymondo
18 years agomistymorn
18 years agogardenlen
18 years agoSparaxis
18 years agoRobert_NSW
18 years agoreillyoz007
18 years agoUser
18 years agoriverstone6
18 years ago
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