Old Troy Bilt Tiller
14 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (14)
- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
Related Discussions
Troy bilt tiller identifcation
Comments (2)I bought a old Troy bilt Horse a couple years back. Th-1019 IF-2 with a Tecumsch engine HH60 105115H SER 4108D. Can anyone tell me the age? After cleaning the carburator it runs ok while I'm tilling( under load) but the engine races when I lift the tines out of the ground. I suspect the Governor needs adjusted. Does any one know how to adjust the governor or have any other suggestions to prevent the engine from racing when not under load?...See MoreTroy-bilt tiller 'garden way' transmission question
Comments (44)We inherited a Troy-Bilt tiller with Gardenway TH 1018 on the tiller and a B&S engine # 171437, prob 1992 built. Engine runs great, tines move forward & back, but not fast enough to do more than make a scratch on the ground. Looks like a place for 2 belts, but only one there. Need 2nd belt? Also, don't see any levers for the tine and wheel speeds to be run separately. Only tillers I'm familiar with are the front tine models where you have to pull back really hard to make it dig in. Shouldn't the tires and weight of the machine do that work for me? Any help would be appreciated. Have a friend that "dabbles" in mechanics, but we need a manual or something. -- THANKS!...See MoreHelp with Troy Bilt tiller identification
Comments (3)Yes, PTO in/out is a little slider lever on the left side of the transmission. Has double belt pulleys for 2 different speeds, besides the trans 2 speed. the Kohler is a blocky looking thing, fuel tank squarish-built-in on left side, air cleaner blockish on the right - much different looking than most engines I see on Troy Bilts......See MoreHow do I remove wheel from old Troy-Bilt Tiller?
Comments (11)bagsprc - I think the HH60 is the engine serial number, not the tiller number. But, no matter. Try this: Lift up the flat-tire side of the tiller and set a concrete block under it, so that the flat tire is held off the ground. Take one of those load-securing straps that has a ratchet mechanism to tighten it down, and place the strap around the tire; tighten the hell out of it, so that the bead of the tire is squished out against the wheel. (If you don't have such a strap, try a rope as farmerboybill suggested - however, it's hard to pull the rope tight enough.) Using a compressor or a portable air tank, put air into the tire; the object here is for air pressure to force the tire beads against the wheel tight enough to seal. Sometimes it helps to remove the core from the valve stem, in which case you have to put a simple nozzle on your air hose - if you do it this way, you'll lose some air while you reinsert the core, but the beads should hold. If you are able to seat the beads and the tire holds air, then you're good to go. If you seat the beads but the tire looses air, then try putting Slime into it, rotate the tire a number of times, and air it up again. HOWEVER, if you can't get the beads to seat, you've got 3 options; turn the tiller over on its side and see if you can insert a tube with the wheel still on the tiller, or remove the wheel and install a tube OR load the tiller up and take it to a tire repair shop. At this point, I personally would head for the tire shop. Good luck removing the wheel - it's probably going to be quite a job. Punch the pin out, and the wheel is ready to slip off the axle - but it won't. It's probably rusted in place. Try P-Blaster, tap on the wheel with a hammer, spray it again, let it soak overnight, tap it some more - work it, work it, work it. If you've got a torch, try heat. Good luck. If you do ever get it off, put anti-seize on the axle before you reinstall it. If you get the wheel off, put a tube in the tire....See More- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 18 days ago
joshmarke_gmail_com